A Roman celebrity chef's guide to the best carbonara in his hometown
Chef Max Mariola regards the sound of pasta being flipped in a pan as the "sound of love." He shares his top picks for carbonara dishes in Rome to savor not just on National Carbonara Day but on any occasion.
Carbonara, a delectable combination of egg yolks, guanciale (pork cheek), and pecorino cheese, stands out as the quintessential dish in Rome's culinary repertoire. It surpasses other beloved Roman pasta dishes such as cacio e pepe, gricia, and amatriciana, embodying the essence and robustness of Roman cuisine.
Whether in the bustling trattorias of the historic Trastevere district or the cozy kitchens of the working-class Ostiense neighborhood, carbonara remains a staple in Roman dining. Its popularity is such that it has its own dedicated day, celebrated annually on April 6th. However, despite the affection it garners, carbonara also sparks debate; Romans are famously protective of the traditional recipe and are wary of any attempts to alter it by outsiders.
Max Mariola, a native Roman chef renowned for his enthusiastically vibrant cooking videos, explains, "We Romans are quite possessive about our cuisine." With millions of online followers considering him a prominent culinary authority in the city, Mariola acknowledges the Roman tendency to be somewhat overconfident about culinary matters. He emphasizes the establishment of certain ways of preparing dishes as the standard to follow.
On this Carbonara Day, Max shares a secret with the staunch traditionalists of the culinary world: "It's a dish that has evolved, and there isn't just one way to make it."
Despite carbonara's revered status in the culinary realm, its recipe is not as immutable as the ancient city of Rome itself. This year commemorates the 70th anniversary of the recipe's debut in an Italian cookbook, featuring ingredients—including Gruyère cheese—that differ from those commonly used today.
"Everyone has their own method—some use just the yolks, while others incorporate the whole egg. Some prepare it directly on the heat, while others prefer off the heat," Mariola explains. "Each household has its own tradition."
Fortunately, Rome offers a plethora of dining options where one can experience this diversity firsthand. In celebration of the city's most iconic and debated dish, here are Mariola's top recommendations for indulging in a carbonara prepared according to the whims of the kitchen gods.
1. Best for a gourmet dish with the finest ingredients: Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
In the realm of Roman cuisine, known for its hearty flavors and indulgent ingredients, fine dining isn't usually the first thing that comes to mind. However, at the bakery-turned-restaurant Roscioli Salumeria con cucina, even the simplest of the city's dishes are elevated to gourmet status.
According to Mariola, Roscioli has perfected the art of carbonara, offering what he considers Rome's most exquisite interpretation of the dish.
The secret to Roscioli's success lies in its meticulous approach to sourcing the finest ingredients. According to Mariola, owner Alessandro's expertise lies in procuring the highest quality natural produce. Rather than just discussing guanciale or pecorino, he delves into details, presenting a selection of guanciale varieties and explaining the nuances of pecorino from different regions like Rome, Amatrice, and beyond.
This dedication extends to the pasta used in their carbonara, which Mariola describes as the "top range." Roscioli's journey began in 1972 as a bakery and has since expanded into a collection of boutique grocery stores and the Salumeria restaurant. The establishment's history may even trace back two centuries, with evidence of a bakery dating back to August 1824 according to a Papal census.
The unique layout of Roscioli, combining elements of a delicatessen and an eatery, offers a sensory delight for both the eyes and the taste buds, as Mariola attests. The appeal of this model has attracted an international following, leading to the opening of a branch in New York City in 2023.
For more information, visit their website at https://www.roscioli.com or visit them at Via dei Giubbonari, 21, 00186. They can also be contacted via phone at +39 06 687 5287, and you can find them on Instagram at @rosciolisalumeria.
2. Best for giant portions and a historical experience: Flavio al Veloavevodetto
Having carbonara served in the midst of Ancient Roman refuse might sound like the setup for a joke, but at Flavio al Veloavevodetto—a cellar-osteria nestled within a 2,000-year-old mound composed of discarded amphora fragments—the carbonara is no laughing matter. In fact, the restaurant's chef and namesake, Flavio De Maio, has earned the title of the city's "Carbonara King."
Describing Flavio as somewhat eccentric, Mariola explains his relentless pursuit of the finest ingredients, even venturing as far as Abruzzo to source them directly from farmers and families. Under Flavio's reign, portions are generously sized, leaving patrons feeling fully satisfied in true Roman fashion.
Located in Testaccio, a neighborhood steeped in Ancient Roman history as a bustling river port turned working-class enclave, Flavio al Veloavevodetto offers a departure from the tourist traps of the city center. Even the most hesitant diners find their doubts dispelled once they taste the exceptional carbonara. As the restaurant's name suggests—"ve lo avevo detto," or "I told you so"—patrons quickly realize they've made the right choice.
For those reluctant to stray too far from the historic center within Aurelian walls, Flavio's carbonara can also be enjoyed at another branch in the upscale Prati district adjacent to the Vatican.
For further details, visit their website at https://www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it or visit them at Via di Monte Testaccio, 97, 00153 / Piazza dei Quiriti, 4-5. They can be reached by phone at +39 06 574 4194 / +39 06 3600 0009, and you can find them on Instagram at @alvelavevodetto.
3. Best for a hearty carbonara: Da Teo
Entering Da Teo feels akin to being welcomed into a Roman family's home for a meal. Situated within a charming ivy-clad trattoria in the enchanting Trastevere neighborhood, the atmosphere is lively, the servings ample, and it's not uncommon to spot chef Teodoro Filippini engaging with guests.
Mariola describes the carbonara at Da Teo as reminiscent of a homemade dish. Indeed, the trattoria's signature offering is robust, creamy, and deeply satisfying, with a savory hint of grated pecorino that strikes the perfect balance of flavors.
The commitment to quality is evident in the fresh, premium ingredients used. According to Mariola, Teodoro personally frequents the market each morning to handpick the produce, eschewing the practice of ordering in supplies like many others do.
For further details, visit their Facebook page at https://m.facebook.com/Trattoria.da.TEO/ or visit them at Piazza dei Ponziani, 7A, 00153. They can be contacted by phone at +39 06 581 8355, and you can find them on Instagram at @trattoriadateo.
4. Best for a creamier sauce: Armando al Pantheon
In a city renowned for its historical landmarks, earning the title of an "institution" is a significant achievement. For Mariola, the 63-year-old restaurant Armando al Pantheon holds this esteemed status, much like its neighboring ancient Roman temple.
Mariola describes Armando al Pantheon as more than just a restaurant; it's a living history, a cherished family establishment. The restaurant's warm ambiance is enhanced by its interior adorned with vintage photographs depicting various moments from Rome's rich history.
When it comes to Armando's carbonara, it stands out for its creamy texture. Surprisingly, the secret ingredient responsible for this texture deviates from tradition: parmesan cheese. While pecorino is typically used in carbonara, Armando al Pantheon opts for parmesan, a northern Italian cow's cheese, to elevate the dish's flavor and consistency. According to Mariola, this unconventional choice has been instrumental in the restaurant's success.
Mariola praises the addition of parmesan as a smart decision, noting that it softens the sauce and creates a more balanced flavor profile. It's a choice that simply feels right to him.
For further information, visit their website at https://www.armandoalpantheon.it or visit them at Salita de' Crescenzi, 31, 00186. Online bookings are available, and you can find them on Instagram at @armandoalpantheon.
5. Best for a more traditional recipe: Checco er Carrettiere
Nestled in a charming alleyway of Trastevere, Checco er Carrettiere is a veritable time capsule, exuding a nostalgic ambiance reminiscent of mid-century Rome.
Adorned with oak-paneled walls adorned with sepia-toned photographs showcasing local celebrities spanning from footballers to film stars, the restaurant transports patrons to a cozy Roman courtyard.
Mariola describes Checco er Carrettiere as an iconic establishment that exudes a sense of comfort, likening it to a journey through history. The restaurant's signature carbonara, characterized by its robust flavors, has remained unchanged over the years. Prepared with Lagano brand spaghettoni pasta cooked to perfection, coated in a velvety sauce, and featuring tender guanciale prepared in the traditional manner, it epitomizes the classic Roman dish.
Dating back to 1935, Checco er Carrettiere holds the distinction of being the oldest establishment on the list. Throughout its storied history, it has played host to a myriad of celebrity guests, including renowned filmmaker Federico Fellini. Despite the passage of time, the restaurant has remained steadfast in its commitment to authenticity, using only the finest regional ingredients and staying true to its heritage.
According to Mariola, Checco er Carrettiere has a distinct historical aroma that greets patrons upon entry, evoking a sense of nostalgia and tradition. It's an experience that Mariola describes as the embodiment of love.
For more information, visit their website at https://www.checcoercarettiere.it/en/checco-er-carettiere or contact them via phone at +39 06 581 7018. You can find them at Via Benedetta, 10, 00153, and on Instagram at @checcoercarattiere.
