The Agbada and Babanriga Debate: Long Sleeve or Short Sleeve?
The Agbada and Babanriga Debate: Long Sleeve or Short Sleeve?
Fashion, though often seen as a subjective form of self-expression, can spark some of the most intriguing and heated debates. Recently, I found myself in a rather amusing yet perplexing disagreement with a close friend regarding the proper style of the inner wear beneath the traditional Agbada (as it is called in Southwestern Nigeria) or Babanriga (as referred to in the Northern part of the country). It might sound trivial, but this discussion, rooted in cultural fashion preferences, left me feeling quite the victim of misunderstanding.
My friend and I share the same tailor, one who has crafted my traditional outfits for as long as I can remember. Recently, we both decided to have agbada outfits sewn at the same time, with the same fabric, but without consulting each other on the details. Naturally, I assumed the tailor would know my preferences, a long-sleeved inner to accompany the flowing agbada, as it has been for many years. However, my friend requested a ¾-sleeve inner for his own attire.
When the tailor sent me a video clip of the finished outfit, I was shocked to see that my inner shirt had also been made with ¾-length sleeves. Confused and disappointed, I immediately called the tailor and asked him a simple question: "Did I instruct you to sew a ¾-sleeve inner?" His initial hesitation confirmed that he had made an assumption based on my friend’s preferences, believing I would want the same. I responded sharply: "Is my friend paying you for my clothes?" Of course, the tailor had no response.
I promptly rejected the ¾-sleeve and demanded that it be altered to a long-sleeved version, as is customary for me. Yet, my friend persisted in his argument, claiming that shorter sleeves were now the trend, not just in recent years but even historically. To support his claim, he shared two images of young Nigerian celebrities rocking ¾-sleeve inners beneath their agbada outfits. 
Then, he pulled out a trump card: a historic photograph of the late Chief Obafemi Awolowo, a revered statesman, wearing a short-sleeve inner beneath his agbada. This left me both surprised and confused. Could there have been a long-standing Southern preference for short sleeves that I had missed all these years?
A North-South Fashion Divide?
The debate between my friend and I sparked an even more significant question: Could there be a North-South divide in the preference for agbada or babanriga inners? From my upbringing and observations, I had always seen elder Northern statesmen donning long-sleeved inners beneath their babanriga, a fashion staple in the North. My father and his contemporaries consistently wore long-sleeved shirts under their traditional garments, and I had never noticed any deviation from this practice.
This made me wonder if the North had a stronger cultural attachment to long sleeves, while in the South, especially in the more modern and celebrity-driven fashion circles, shorter sleeves had become more acceptable, if not the norm.
In an attempt to find answers, I scoured the internet for images of Northern elder statesmen wearing agbada or babanriga with short sleeves, and interestingly, I found little evidence of it. Pictures of notable Northern figures, such as the Sardauna of Sokoto, Sir Ahmadu Bello, or former President Shehu Shagari, consistently showed them in long-sleeved inners. It appeared that the preference for long sleeves under babanriga had deeper roots in Northern Nigeria, possibly as a symbol of formality and tradition.
On the other hand, in the South, there may be a growing trend of incorporating modern, more relaxed innerwear styles. This could explain why my friend so confidently asserted that ¾-sleeve inners are more "in vogue" now, particularly among younger, more fashion-forward Nigerians. Celebrities like Wizkid or Davido have embraced shorter sleeves in their traditional outfits, blending contemporary fashion trends with Nigeria’s rich cultural heritage.
Historical Perspectives on Fashion
The photograph of Chief Awolowo that my friend shared left me pondering the evolution of fashion trends across Nigeria. Awolowo, a key figure in Nigeria's independence movement and a man known for his sharp dress sense, was seen sporting a short-sleeve inner beneath his agbada. Could this indicate that even in the mid-20th century, short sleeves were not entirely unheard of in the Southwest?
Further research into this could suggest that regional and generational influences play a significant role in determining fashion choices. It’s possible that, historically, both long and short sleeves have coexisted in Nigeria’s cultural fashion repertoire, with personal preferences, weather conditions, and societal trends shaping the choice of one over the other.
A Matter of Personal Preference
In the end, what I learned from this somewhat humorous disagreement is that fashion, like many aspects of culture, is deeply personal. While I may prefer long sleeves under my agbada, and my friend swears by the modern appeal of shorter sleeves, neither of us is objectively wrong. Fashion trends, particularly in a country as diverse as Nigeria, are fluid and ever-changing, influenced by a multitude of factors including culture, age, climate, and even celebrity influence.
For the tailor who made the assumption that my friend’s preference should apply to me as well, the lesson is clear: always clarify instructions, even with long-standing clients. And for me, this episode has opened my eyes to the nuances of traditional fashion in Nigeria, and how even something as seemingly small as sleeve length can become a point of contention.
Conclusion
This lighthearted debate with my friend serves as a reminder that fashion, no matter how subjective, is tied to culture, personal identity, and societal trends. While my northern roots may have me favoring long sleeves, the evolving fashion landscape in Nigeria shows that short sleeves are gaining ground, particularly in the South. What matters most, however, is staying true to one’s personal style, no matter the trends.
Should you resonate with my thoughts or have insights into the North-South divide on agbada and babanriga fashion, feel free to share your views.
References
Falola, Toyin, and Jean Herskovits. Traditional Nigerian Clothing: Patterns and Cultural Implications. Cambridge University Press, 2000.
Akintoye, Stephen. A History of the Yoruba People. Amalion Publishing, 2010.
Vanguard. "Agbada: The Timeless Nigerian Traditional Attire." Vanguard, June 12, 2019.
Style Rave. "Nigerian Celebrities Rocking the Agbada with Swag." Style Rave, September 15, 2023.
