How a traditional craft became a Gen-Z statement

Embroidery is experiencing a resurgence among a new generation, who are discovering its potential for upcycling clothing and making empowering statements. Artist LJ Roberts showcases three textile artworks in the exhibition Unravel: The Power and Politics of Textiles in Art at London's Barbican. These pieces, part of Roberts's Carry You With Me: Ten Years of Portraits series, depict queer parades and protests.

Interestingly, the artworks are displayed between panes of glass, allowing visitors to view the back of each embroidery, revealing knots and incidental threads. According to Roberts, working with textiles reflects the flexibility and resilience often found in queer and trans communities. The embroideries serve as a testament to the power of art in fostering kinship, persistence, and connection, regardless of where or when it is created.

Unravel showcases how the perception of embroidery has evolved significantly from the days when it was often associated with delicate-looking ladies in crinoline, who would embroider handkerchiefs out of a lack of other activities. The exhibition illustrates the enduring interest in craft, which is not only prevalent in museums but also in various workshops, women's circles, and notably, within the realm of luxury fashion. A standout example this spring is the collaboration between Loewe and Kyoto-based ceramic studio Suna Fujita.

Through this collaboration, artists Shohei Fujita and Chisato Yamano create a whimsical narrative where humans, animals, and nature coexist harmoniously. Their intricate embroidery depicts a charming menagerie of pandas, penguins, lemurs, otters, and boys harvesting mandrake roots, adorning knitwear and accessories with a delightful touch.

The resurgence of embroidery is closely linked to the fashion industry's recognition of its detrimental impact on various fronts, including carbon emissions, environmental boundaries, animal welfare, and racial justice. With nearly 70% of all clothing being synthetic and 40% of produced garments never reaching retail shelves, coupled with only 2% of garment workers receiving a living wage, the root cause lies in overconsumption.

Amidst this backdrop, a growing number of sustainable fashion advocates are advocating for creative approaches to reusing and repairing existing clothing, such as through upcycling and decorative embroidery. Gen Z, in particular, has shown keen enthusiasm for this trend, as evidenced by the viral success of embroidery content on platforms like TikTok.

Repair consultant Tessa Solomons highlights the significance of visible mending and darning as ways to demonstrate a deeper connection with one's clothing. By embracing wear and tear and using embroidery to embellish small holes and stains, individuals are not only stepping away from consumer culture but also asserting their personal connection with their garments. Transforming mass-produced items into personalized pieces allows individuals to infuse their own personality into their clothing, fostering a meaningful and ongoing relationship with their wardrobe.

Step by step guide

For beginners in embroidery, selecting a motif is the initial step. Solomons, known for incorporating tiny characters into her commissions, draws inspiration from the natural world. She finds the intricate designs of nature, such as vibrant sea creatures, particularly captivating. Creating these miniature creatures, she believes, reconnects us with the brilliance of nature. Additionally, Solomons adds a distinctive touch to her designs by incorporating eyes, which she feels invite viewers to engage and initiate conversations about repair.

After choosing a motif, selecting the appropriate item to embroider is crucial, especially for novices. Woven fabrics, as opposed to knitted ones, are recommended for beginners due to their stability and reduced stretchiness. Sweatshirts, T-shirts, and denim are ideal choices as they provide a stable surface for embroidery without excessive movement.

Solomons advises starting with chunkier knitwear for practice, as it is easier to work with compared to finer textures. Interestingly, customizing synthetic knitwear not only provides a creative outlet but also contributes to reducing landfill waste, making it a sustainable and rewarding endeavor.

To transfer your design onto fabric, you can either trace it onto water-soluble stabilizing or backing paper, which can then be affixed to the fabric and stitched over, or draw it directly onto the fabric using a heat erasable pen. It's wise to test the pen inside the hem to ensure it doesn't leave any marks.

Once your design is in place, center it within an embroidery hoop to maintain consistent tension and prevent accidentally sewing other parts of the garment together. Use a proper embroidery needle and select between one and six strands of cotton embroidery thread, depending on the design's requirements. The number of strands used determines the thickness and visual impact of the stitches.

In workshops, Solomons demonstrates various stitching techniques, such as the running stitch, chain stitch, back stitch, and satin stitch. For small areas, a satin stitch works well, while larger areas can be filled using alternating long and short stitches.
When working with embroidery threads, it's crucial to ensure that the ends of the threads are woven back into the design at the back to prevent them from hanging loose, which could cause snags when wearing the garment. After purchasing thread, wind it onto bobbins to keep it organized and prevent tangling.

The number of strands used in embroidery depends on various factors, including the design's size, the desired stitch size, color, and the fabric's weight. Solomons compares the number of strands to different pen nibs, emphasizing their role as design tools. In her workshops, Solomons demonstrates running stitches with one to six strands, suggesting using four to six strands for a thicker outline and one to two strands for delicate designs on fine fabrics.

For smooth outlines, Solomons prefers chain stitches, but back stitches also work well. Satin stitches are recommended for small areas, while alternating long and short stitches can fill larger spaces. It's essential to finish the threads properly by weaving them back into the design at the back to prevent loose threads from catching when wearing the garment. Organizing threads on bobbins is advised to avoid tangling and facilitate color palette creation by laying them across fabrics and fibers to experiment with different combinations.

Solomons recommends exploring the work of contemporary embroiderers like Richard Saja, Elaine Reichek, Elsa Hansen Oldham, and Tessa Perlow for inspiration. Kate Sekules' book "Mend!: A Refashioning Menu and Manifesto" is recommended for its accessible and punk approach to embroidery. Other notable artists include Stewart Easton and Pascal Monteil, who practices embroidery in a village in Italy. Ultimately, the key to successful embroidery lies in responding to one's passion while honoring the rich history of the craft. As stated in the Unravel exhibition, stitching can be a subversive act, challenging fixed ideas and expressing free expression through thread.