Evolution of Santa’s favorite cookie (plus 4 recipes)

'Cookies are made of butter . . . and love. — Anonymous

Once Upon a Time…

There were sugar and flour and butter and eggs which gave us biscuits and other sweet treats, but there were no sugar cookies.
What was missing?
True sugar cookies require a leavening agent — a baking substance that, when mixed with liquids and bolstered by the heat of the oven, creates bubbles. Bubbles magically transform dough from flat and hardened to soft and pillowy — everything that a splendid sugar cookie should be.
But I’m jumping ahead too quickly. Let’s get back to the world before the creation of those magical leavening agents named baking soda and baking powder — the world before sugar cookies.

Jumbals: The Earliest Sugar Cookie?

What are jumbals? Reference to jumbals can be found in English cookbooks. They were baked goods, thick and unleavened, and I’m pretty sure they were hard as rocks. On a positive note, they could be stored without fear of spoiling for a year or more. Perfect for a nibble on long journeys. They were also typically formed into twisted knot shapes, probably so that they could be more easily broken and shared.
The flavors and varieties of jumbals were almost endless — some contained dried fruits and nuts, others were flavored with brandies, rosewater, or (sometimes bold) spices. But, it was the New York Dutch who introduced a new and innovative ingredient. They used an alkaline substance, pearlash, to invigorate their baked goods and create the crisp yet chewy texture that we associate with the cookies we know and love today

you can read more at rootedcook.com