An expert's guide to finding the best cheese in Paris

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11 Apr 2024
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While many travelers flock to Paris for its bread, pastries, and leisurely bistro meals, my primary attraction to the city lies in its cheese offerings. With over a thousand varieties to sample, France boasts a diverse range of cheeses, from the fresh chèvres of the Loire Valley, exuding hints of the countryside, to the bold Roqueforts of the southwest, aged in caves and adorned with vibrant green-blue veins. Situated in the heart of France, Paris serves as the perfect hub for indulging in this rich tapestry of flavors.

For cheese enthusiasts exploring Paris, a visit to a fromagerie is often the first stop, where a stunning array of cheeses is displayed like a work of art, showcasing the diversity of flavors, textures, and appearances. However, there are numerous other opportunities to indulge in turophilia, whether through cheese tasting workshops or dining at restaurants dedicated to France's renowned dairy offerings.

Whether you're keen on experiencing the tradition of elegant French cheese carts or simply want to gather a selection for a relaxed picnic, here are ten recommendations to ensure that your cheesiest dreams in Paris are fully realized.

1. Best for house-crafted creations: Fromagerie Quatrehomme

Marie Quatrehomme, a renowned cheesemonger, passed on her family's business to her children, Nathalie and Maxime. Their flagship store, Fromagerie Quatrehomme on rue de Sèvres, boasts a central table displaying pre-cut cheese portions with handwritten labels, offering a bright and welcoming atmosphere where knowledgeable staff are always on hand to offer guidance. In addition to classics like hand-selected Comté aged by the esteemed affineur Marcel Petite, Quatrehomme stands out for its range of unique specialties.

These include blue Fourme d'Ambert filled with fig jam, smoked Charolais aged in Nikka Whisky, and Camembert mendiant topped with nuts, dried fruit, and a hint of chocolate. The shop utilizes a natural stone aging cellar to refine goat cheeses and Brie noir into dense, Parmesan-like textures.

They also elevate washed-rind cheeses like Langres and Mont d'Or by washing them in Champagne and pine liqueur. Quatrehomme's other Parisian locations can be found in the 9th, 12th, and 13th arrondissements, as well as in the nearby suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux.

2. Best for a lesson in cheese: Paroles de Fromagers

Paroles de Fromagers presents an inviting ambiance with its spacious, alpine chalet-inspired shop managed by Romain Ricciardi and Pierre Brisson. However, beyond its charming exterior lies a comprehensive cheese school catering to both enthusiasts and professionals alike. Conducted in English for groups of up to 12 participants, classes run from Tuesdays to Saturdays.

The "Introduction to Cheese and Wine" session provides a 1½-hour exploration of cheese tasting and pairing. Participants embark on a tour of the shop and onsite cellar, where cheeses mature on aromatic spruce boards. Following the tour, groups gather in the 17th-century stone tasting room for a guided tasting of seven cheeses and three wines, led by an English-speaking cheesemonger.

For a deeper dive, the "Art of Pairing" course elevates the experience with nine premium cheeses and five exceptional wines, spanning 2¼ hours. Additionally, those interested in cheesemaking can partake in a two-hour workshop, where they'll learn the basics of crafting fresh tomme-style cheese and butter from scratch. The session concludes with a cheese and wine tasting, and participants have the opportunity to take home their freshly made products.
In June, Paroles de Fromagers will also debut an interactive cheese museum on Île Saint-Louis, exploring the rich history, culture, and techniques behind cheesemaking.

Website: Paroles de Fromagers
Address: 41 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75010 Paris, France
Phone: +33 (0)1 48 03 98 18
Instagram: @ParolesDeFromagers

3. Best for freshly made cheese: La Laiterie de Paris

When Pierre Coulon established Laiterie de Paris in 2017, he became Paris's sole cheesemaker, pioneering a unique approach of bringing raw milk into the city for processing. Although a few others have since adopted a similar model, Coulon remains a standout figure in the industry. Presently, he oversees two shops: the primary location in the Goutte d'Or neighborhood, where he crafts and matures decadent cow's milk Saint-Félicien and a variety of goat cheeses, and a second shop near Canal de l'Ourcq in the 19th arrondissement, specializing in yogurts and desserts.

Both establishments cater to the preferences of the younger demographic in their respective areas, drawing inspiration from international flavors. For instance, a signature house-made goat cheese infused with hazelnuts, creamy honey, and za'atar sourced from local spice supplier Nomie pays homage to the Arab community surrounding the flagship shop and has garnered a loyal following.

While a significant portion of Coulon's offerings are crafted in-house, about half are sourced from trusted cheesemakers across France, many of whom embrace avant-garde techniques. This eclectic selection includes CBD-infused raclette alongside "Imparfait Comté," which features slight imperfections but offers exceptional value. Coulon's team also innovates with creations like Brillat-Savarin double cream cheese split and filled with seaweed and smoked oil, or Brie stuffed with a delightful combination of dates and almonds. Fans of Camembert shouldn't miss the opportunity to sample batches made by the team at their production facility in Normandy.

Website: Laiterie de Paris Facebook Page
Address: 74 rue des Poissonniers, 75018 Paris, France
Phone: +33 (0)1 42 59 44 64
Instagram: @laiterie_de_paris_fromagerie_

4. Best for an intimate tasting: Cheese Tastings with Jennifer Greco

After more than two decades residing in France, American expatriate Jennifer Greco has sampled over 460 of the country's 1,000-plus cheeses, driven by her ambition to taste them all. Now, she shares her delectable findings with visitors through intimate cheese tastings held in a cozy, woman-owned Parisian wine shop, typically on Thursdays and Fridays (with flexibility for private tours on other days).

Limited to just eight participants per session, each tasting offers a selection of at least 12 cheeses, ranging from seasonal specialties to beloved classics like the decadent Brillat-Savarin or the creamy, nutty Beaufort. Accompanied by fresh French bread and four to five carefully chosen wines, these tastings create a memorable experience lasting approximately three hours, serving as a satisfying alternative to a full meal.

With her natural teaching ability and evident enthusiasm for cheese, Greco proves to be the perfect guide for any cheese lover embarking on a delicious journey.

Website: Cheese and Wine Tasting in Paris with Chez Loulou
Address: Provided upon booking (11th arrondissement)
Instagram: @chezlouloufrance

5. Best for an interactive experience: Monbleu

Entrepreneur Damien Richardot operates the spacious cheese-focused restaurant Monbleu, offering a diverse selection of traditional and contemporary cheese dishes. From customizable cheese plates to fluffy Comté gougères filled with triple-cream Brillat-Savarin, the menu caters to various tastes.

Adventurous diners can even indulge in Roquefort ice cream for dessert. Alongside the à la carte options, guests can opt for the signature raclette experience, a traditional Alpine dish where diners melt slices of raclette cheese over potatoes and accompaniments using individual frying pans on a special heating apparatus placed in the center of the table. This communal dining experience is a highlight of the menu, reflecting Richardot's upbringing in the Alps.

Monbleu's adjacent cheese shop offers around a hundred farmstead cheeses, curated with expertise from MOF fromager Pierre Gay. While the shop closes at 8:00 PM, they happily hold purchases for diners.
In addition to the flagship restaurant, Monbleu operates two smaller outposts: le Comptoir in the Marais neighborhood, focusing on wine, and Monbleu Père Lacheese, renowned for its croques, baked pastas, and gratins.

Website: Monbleu
Address: 37 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 Paris, France
Phone: +33 (0)1 45 89 23 96
Instagram: @monbleu

6. Best for a lunch break while shopping: Laurent Dubois au Printemps du Goût

MOF fromager Laurent Dubois is renowned for his innovative and almost pastry-like approach to cheese, showcased at his four shops scattered across Paris. His creations include a Roquefort resembling a layer cake, featuring slabs of quince paste or fresh goat cheese topped with yuzu and Timut pepper. Additionally, Dubois showcases his expertise as an affineur by transforming cheeses, such as rewashing creamy Langres in mirabelle plum liqueur or aging mild blue Fourme d'Ambert until it develops a crumbly, pungent, and slightly sweet profile.

During lunchtime at the upscale food court atop the Printemps du Goût department store, Dubois' cheeses take center stage in a variety of culinary preparations. Options range from classic French onion soup crowned with Comté to a goat cheese salad featuring top-quality crottin de Chavignol. The croques monsieur offerings vary seasonally, with popular options including the Paristrami with pastrami and cheddar, and the Incontournable with 12-month-old Comté and Paris ham from the Prince of Paris.

Diners can also opt for a simple yet exquisite cheese board, accompanied by charcuterie if desired. However, any cheeses you wish to take home must be purchased from one of Dubois' boutiques located in the 4th, 5th, 15th, or 16th arrondissement.

Guests dining at the Printemps du Goût can also enjoy dishes from the steakhouse menu of Regain, the meat-focused restaurant adjacent to Dubois' cheese offerings. Desserts are curated by pastry chef Nina Métayer, and diners can enjoy their meals on the terrace overlooking the Opéra Garnier and the Eiffel Tower, weather permitting.

Website: Laurent Dubois - Restaurant
Address: 70 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, France
Phone: +33 (0)1 42 82 40 05
Instagram: @laurentdubois_fromager_paris























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