Five under-the-radar eats in Los Angeles
Jenn Harris, a native Angeleno and acclaimed food columnist for the Los Angeles Times, sheds light on the lesser-known culinary gems in Los Angeles, ranging from the flavorful garlicky chicken rice at Heng Heng to the nostalgic 60-year-old panino at Roma Market.
While Los Angeles is often associated with stereotypes like avocado toasts and celebrity-endorsed superfood smoothies, locals understand that the city's true culinary essence lies in its diverse cultural offerings. Despite the presence of iconic dining establishments such as Nancy Silverton's Osteria Mozza and the historic Musso & Frank Grill, the heart of Los Angeles' food scene resides in its smaller, neighborhood eateries.
According to Harris, who has been championing Los Angeles as the best food city in the country for as long as she can remember, the city's culinary landscape is a reflection of its vibrant cultural tapestry, best explored through its diverse array of cuisines served at local spots rather than its upscale dining venues.
Jenn Harris's upbringing reflects a diverse culinary background, with her Chinese mother's influence introducing her to dim sum and grand banquets, while her Jewish father's side taught her to make traditional dishes like matzo ball soup and latkes. Exploring Los Angeles' food scene from a young age, she developed a taste for a wide range of cuisines, from tacos to tahdig (crispy Persian rice).
Harris emphasizes that what sets Los Angeles' food scene apart is its unparalleled diversity, with virtually every cuisine and culture represented across the city. This diversity isn't limited to isolated restaurants; instead, it's woven into the fabric of the city's vibrant neighborhoods, allowing for immersive culinary experiences.
Navigating Los Angeles' expansive layout can be a challenge, as many people tend to stick to one area due to the necessity of having a car for transportation. However, Harris stresses the importance of exploring beyond the touristy areas like Hollywood to truly discover the city's culinary treasures.
To offer a taste of LA's multicultural culinary landscape, Harris shares her top five favorite under-the-radar eateries scattered across Los Angeles.
1. Best for casual lunch: Heng Heng Chicken Rice
Heng Heng Chicken Rice, located in LA's Thai Town within East Hollywood, is a modest eatery situated next to a motel. Renowned food columnist Jenn Harris describes it as a destination with a focus on poultry-centric dishes, particularly Hainan chicken and rice, which holds a special place in chef Eve Ramasoot's heart as her favorite childhood comfort food. However, the standout dish at Heng Heng is the crispy pork, celebrated for its bold flavors that encompass spiciness, sourness, pungency, and a hint of sweetness in every bite.
Harris suggests Heng Heng as an ideal spot for various dining occasions, whether it's a casual solo lunch, a meal with a friend, or a gathering with a group, thanks to the menu's easy-to-share options. The signature dish features sliced chicken arranged atop fragrant garlic-infused rice or noodles. In addition to the renowned chicken, Chef Ramasoot offers a beloved Zaab crispy pork dish, marinated in soy sauce, deep-fried, and served with lime, dried chili, red onion, coriander, and green onion.
2. Best for a dumpling crawl: Kang Kang Food Court
According to Harris, Sheng jian bao are a unique fusion of yeasted bun, potsticker, and soup dumpling, all rolled into one delightful package. Among the many options in Los Angeles, Kang Kang Food Court in the San Gabriel Valley stands out as offering the best sheng jian bao she's ever tasted. These buns boast crispy and golden bottoms, fluffy tops akin to a bao, and a juicy filling with a subtle pork flavor.
Situated in the San Gabriel Valley, a region renowned for its exceptional culinary offerings, Kang Kang Food Court has been a fixture in the area for over 20 years. Despite its cafeteria-style setup and cash-only policy, it shines brightly amidst a plethora of noteworthy restaurants. Harris recommends bringing a group along to Kang Kang Food Court to maximize the experience by ordering a variety of dishes and sharing them.
3. Best for Mexicali tacos: Asadero Chikali
Harris highlights that some of the most cherished dining establishments in Los Angeles aren't flashy openings but rather small businesses situated in shopping centers or even mobile food trucks and stands. Asadero Chikali exemplifies this, according to Harris, as one of her preferred taco stands renowned for its fresh flour tortillas.
She describes these tortillas as flawlessly crafted with a textured surface that offers delightful chewiness. At Asadero Chikali, customers can top these perfect tortillas with a variety of long-simmered guisados, ranging from a breakfast taco featuring a spicy chorizo and scrambled egg mixture to delectable meats like rich barbacoa and smoky carne asada.
4. Best for lunch on the go: Roma Market
Some of Los Angeles' lesser-known dining spots paradoxically hold iconic status, including Roma Market, an Italian grocer established in 1946 and recently recognized as a "Pasadena Legacy Business" with a plaque. The market is renowned for its pre-made sandwich, a popular item that quickly sells out despite its modest price of $6 (£4.75).
Described by Harris as a combination of capocollo, mortadella, salami, and provolone on crusty bread with a drizzle of olive oil, the sandwich is a beloved secret among those familiar with Roma Market. Although the market churns out hundreds of these sandwiches daily, each wrapped in the signature pink wax paper, it remains a cherished icon known only to insiders.
5. Best for a frozen treat : Moom Maam
Sun Valley's Wat Thai Temple hosts a weekend market featuring some of the finest Thai cuisine in Los Angeles, according to Harris. Each weekend, the temple's parking lot transforms into an open-air dining area, with vendors setting up stalls and tables.
While the vendors and menus remain consistent from week to week, one standout is Thai gelateria Moom Maam, which has expanded beyond its original stall to also include a permanent location at the bustling Smorgasburg food market in Downtown LA.
Moom Maam is celebrated for its vibrant and bold flavors, offering a variety of unique ice cream options such as blue corn with caramel, uji matcha (green tea), Thai tea, piña colada, fior di cocco (coconut blossom sugar), and The Special—a favorite of Harris—which features mango and coconut gelato with sticky rice served in a crunchy bowl cone.
For more information, you can visit their website at https://www.moommaamfood.com/ or find them at 7333 Fulton Ave Unit 5, North Hollywood, CA 91605.
